Thor and I wind up our second Mediterranean trip at the top of sacred Delos in the center of the Cyclades (“circle”) Greek islands.
NOTE: Since our recent trip to Greece to research more settings for my novel-in-progress, THE ARIADNE DISCONNECT, Thor and I knew we had to return to this magical region. My first entry in this new blog series posted here on Saturday, 10/20/2018. It gives an overview of our rambles from Athens to seven islands in the Dodecanese and Cyclades groups, ending our ferry-hopping pilgrimage on the anciently sacred island of Delos. Stay tuned next week for a new series, as I return to Crete after 37 years!
As we left you with our penultimate Delos post on September 21, we had visited the Dionysos shrine and its sensual celebrations of the popular cult. Next we headed up the steep, rocky trail toward the top of the island and a 360-degree view of surrounding sea and islands. As we climbed, we could appreciate more of the extensive layout of the northern sites already excavated:
There were more intriguing remnants of structures along the way, including a multistory residence:
The steep trail was partly dirt, partly rough rocks, and partly cobblestones, urging us toward the Temple of Isis above.
The island in its heyday was a center for regional trade and secure treasuries, and welcomed the worship of deities from many belief systems. The popular Egyptian goddess Isis was honored with her own temple high on the hillside.
A partial statue of the goddess is visible inside the temple walls:
A ceremonial column in front:
And another statue beside the temple:
In front of the temple, now making a viewing terrace over the sea, a mosaic floor:
As we climbed higher, we could see more of the south end of the island where a lot of area remains to be excavated and understood:
We didn’t have time to explore this complex, but there’s always a reason to return!
Near the top, we were still finding remnants of construction and carved marble. Thor is always fascinated by the variations of wall building, including intricately fitted natural stones:
We reach the top for views and a picnic!
Heading back down to visit the onsite museum before our boat departure, we could see the guardian lions (reproductions) near the (now drained) sacred lake, visible as the bushy green area:
The actual Naxian marble lions are now protected in the museum:
Here, also, is a statue of Leto and Zeus. You may recall that after Zeus seduced and impregnated the lovely Leto, she was hounded by jealous wife Hera, and the only place she could find sanctuary to give birth was here on Delos, at the sacred lake. Here she gave birth to Artemis, goddess of the wild and hunting, and Apollo, god of reason and music.
The small museum houses a lovely collection.
One of my favorite statues, now in the Athens Museum of Archaeology, was found here on Delos — the goddess of love Aphrodite playfully slapping an amorous satyr with her sandal.
The statue collection illustrates the progression of Greek styles from the formal Egyptian-influenced Kouros through Classic grace to the more naturalistic and personal portraits of the Roman style.
A last peek at my personal crush Dionysos, here winged and riding a tiger. This is the original mosaic found in the quarter of the theater, of which he was the patron deity.
And another example of the erotic/fertility objects possibly used in the Dionysian cult. Hang on for the ride with those lusty Greeks!
Next week: Even farther back in time to Crete, the island of the ancient Minoans and Ariadne!
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You will find The Rambling Writer’s blog posts here every Saturday. Sara’s latest novel from Book View Cafe is available in print and ebook: The Ariadne Connection. It’s a near-future thriller set in the Greek islands. “Technology triggers a deadly new plague. Can a healer find the cure?” The novel has received the Chanticleer Global Thriller Grand Prize and the Cygnus Award for Speculative Fiction. Sara has recently returned from another research trip in Greece and is back at work on the sequel, The Ariadne Disconnect. Sign up for her quarterly email newsletter at www.sarastamey.com
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