The Rambling Writer Visits Thailand, part 4: Bangkok Grand Palace and Wat Arun

Thor and I continue our explorations of important sacred sites in Bangkok.

NOTE: “And now for something completely different.” Thor and I made our first trip to Asia — the beautiful country of Thailand.  We were lucky to squeak through the pandemic flight closures this January/February of 2020 as we returned from our three-week trip. Since more travel has now become a distant prospect, we hope you’ll take a virtual vacation with us in the following weeks. (This blog series started on June 13.)

In the last Bangkok post, we took the river “bus” to Wat Phra Kaeo, where we braved the crowds and heat to marvel at the sacred Emerald Buddha and elaborate architecture of the wat compound. We received our blessing bracelets from Buddhist monks robed in orange and wearing protective face masks, an unsettling reminder of the then-new COVID-19 virus starting to raise concerns. Now in July, of course, the sight of people wearing face masks is a reassuring sight. How quickly things change!

With our bracelets and our parasols to guard us from the intensely fierce sun, we left the wat past one more beautiful temple….

…and through one of the gates to the adjoining Royal Palace.

When King Rama the First established the new capital of Bangkok in 1782 and started building Wat Phra Kaeo to house the Emerald Buddha, he also built the Royal Palace. It has been the official residence of the kings from 1782 to 1946, although King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) was the last to live here. This palace is still used for ceremonial occasions, and the kings in Thailand are deeply revered. We saw banners and photos of the king and queen everywhere, including on temple altars along with Buddha images. Apparently, expressions of disrespect for the king or Buddha can be met with punitive action.

Here is one of several Chinese-influenced guard statues at the palace.

Human guards also patrol.

And, on the roof, another guardian demon, along with the stylized finials.

Again, the details and decorations are complex and colorful.

Hot and thirsty, we headed back toward the nearest river bus landing in order to cross over to the important Wat Arun on the other side. Thor had run out of water, but wasn’t quite ready to try this drink along the vendor row:

Instead, we bought more water bottles, navigated the confusing vendor-stall labyrinths, and found the right boat to take us to the beautiful Wat Arun Ratchawararam Ratchawaramahawihan, “Temple of Dawn.”

Again, the Hindu influence is apparent in the name reflecting the Hindu god Aruna, symbolized as the radiating sun. The temple has existed since at least the seventeenth century, though the tall prang (spires) date from the early nineteenth century during the reign of King Rama II. For a time, it housed the Emerald Buddha, before it was moved by King Rama I across the river to the new Wat Phra Kaeo.

The tall central stupa-like pagoda is between 219 and 282 feet tall, depending on different measurements. At the top is a seven-pronged “Trident of Shiva,” and at each corner of the wat is a smaller prang. The complex structures are decorated with broken porcelain and seashells that had been ballast on boats from China, and levels are supported by figures of protective demons, or Hindu Yakkhas.

A series of very steep stairs (especially that stairway on the upper right) took us up the central spire for a view over the river.

The tall central prang apparently was designed with three symbolic levels: The lower base is Traiphum, indicating all realms of existence. The middle level is Tavatimsa , where all desires are gratified. Finally, the top level stands for Devaphum , the six heavens within seven realms of happiness.

So many details to admire! This is a lovely Apsonsi — a mythological being who is half woman and half lion:

And, among the animal statues, a cat prowls:

The reverence among Thais is very real. Among ways to make merit is to leave offerings:

Next week: Thai dancers and Chinese New Year in Bangkok.

*****

You will find The Rambling Writer’s blog posts here every Saturday. Sara’s latest novel from Book View Café is available in print and ebook: The Ariadne Connection. It’s a near-future thriller set in the Greek islands. “Technology triggers a deadly new plague. Can a healer find the cure?”  The novel has received the Chanticleer Global Thriller Grand Prize and the Cygnus Award for Speculative Fiction. Sara has recently returned from another research trip in Greece and is back at work on the sequel, The Ariadne Disconnect. Sign up for her quarterly email newsletter at www.sarastamey.com

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