Thor and I bid a wistful farewell to this magical island of healing, but vow to return.
NOTE: Since our recent trip to Greece to research more settings for my novel-in-progress, THE ARIADNE DISCONNECT, Thor and I knew we had to return to this magical region. My first entry in this new blog series posted here on Saturday, 10/20/2018. It gives an overview of our rambles from Athens to seven islands in the Dodecanese and Cyclades groups, ending our ferry-hopping pilgrimage on the anciently sacred island of Delos.
We agree with Lawrence Durrell about Kos, “…the island of Hippocrates, which has never failed to excite the visitor to eulogy. Poet and wayfarer alike have always appreciated Kos for its green abundance and quietness. It lies lapped in a fold of the Turkish mainland, which thrusts out great promontories now, one upon another, with spectacular fjords laid up between. Kos, the most sheltered of the Dodecanese islands and deservedly the most praised. It would be downright dishonest to raise a dissenting voice against merits so self-evident in these green and smiling valleys, rich with fruit and flowers.” (from The Greek Islands)
Thor and I are now among Durrell’s “addicts” of the island, and in a recent moment of “carpe diem” decided that we must return this coming fall. So stay tuned! Meanwhile, a quick wrap-up of our first stay:
In recent blog posts, we visited the Kos Town museum with its treasures of antiquity, toured the restored Casa Romana villa, and paid homage to the Hippocrates Plane Tree, where Thor collected leaves from the venerable tree for a scientific study. But lovely Kos Town (harbor, top photo) offers even more in a ramble around its tree-shaded lanes.
Many of the existing buildings are Venetian-influenced, like the arcade above. The Medieval castle and battlements along the harbor, unfortunately damaged in a recent earthquake, were closed during our stay, but we’re hoping they’ll reopen soon.
Despite the serene beauty here, it’s never wise to forget that these islands are the realm of Poseidon, the Earth-Shaker. The town church also sustained damaged in the recent quake.
In the compact town center, near the museum and ancient sites, we lunched at one of the outdoor tavernas shaded by spreading trees.
And, of course, we shared our lunch with some of the wandering cats. This little gal stole our hearts along with some bits of souvlaki:
Despite the somewhat cool and windy weather, perhaps the aftermath of Cyclone Zorba (see earlier posts), Thor and I would not ignore our duty to check out the local beaches and swim in the magically clear blue Aegean Sea. Sometimes that involved one of those hair-raising drives down steep dirt roads over dropoffs:
We hiked over the rocky outcrops to the more private third cove.
Another nearby beach offered a more open, sandy stretch.
And the lovely beach below our hotel in Kefalos called for a return visit to admire the temple ruins and swim out to the islet with its tiny chapel. We were too chilled from our swim to climb to the chapel and ring its bell for luck, but hope that Poseidon and the saints will still welcome us back.
In the steep hills above town, we found our favorite restaurant, recommended by helpful local Stefanos. Myltopi is an atmospheric restaurant in a remodeled fortress with an old stone windmill and a fantastic view over the island and sea.
Nearby in the rugged hills lies yet another ruined Castle of the Knights of St. John, said to be the lair of a dragon. Legend has it that Hippocrates’ daughter was transformed into a dragon by the goddess Artemis (watch out that you don’t offend those touchy deities). Per the classic trope, she’s awaiting the kiss of a knight in order to resume human form. Maybe next time we will catch a glimpse of her….
One last chance to enjoy the view over the bay. When the sun later dropped into late afternoon, gleaming white shorebirds were gliding around the islet in the golden glow. Yes, we believe in magic!
Next week: Naxos, the home of Dionysos and Ariadne!
*****
You will find The Rambling Writer’s blog posts here every Saturday. Sara’s latest novel from Book View Cafe is available in print and ebook: The Ariadne Connection. It’s a near-future thriller set in the Greek islands. “Technology triggers a deadly new plague. Can a healer find the cure?” The novel has received the Chanticleer Global Thriller Grand Prize and the Cygnus Award for Speculative Fiction. Sara has recently returned from another research trip in Greece and is back at work on the sequel, The Ariadne Disconnect. Sign up for her quarterly email newsletter at www.sarastamey.com
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