Join Thor and me as we explore the Big Island, starting with a boat excursion to swim with wild spinner dolphins and snorkel by the Captain Cook monument.
NOTE: After way too many months without travel, Thor insisted on an R&R escape to Hawaii this April. He’d been keeping on eye on the very careful Covid-19 precautions in the islands, and the testing required before flying there. And now that we’re both fully vaccinated, we took the plunge – literally, for some snorkeling in the healing sea, as well as exploring the Big Island and Kauai. After this detour, I promise I’ll finish up my Virtual Italy Vacation series soon!
Thankfully, my post-surgery physical therapy and our new “swim spa” pool has gotten me ready for the sea again. (People have expressed concern, but for me it’s so relaxing to be in the sea that it’s not much effort unless there are big waves or current, which we are avoiding for now). I was Really eager for this trip. The Big Island is just that — newer and bigger than all the other Hawaiian islands combined. The raw energy of all the (geologically) new lava being laid down was fascinating, and our condo lanai perched right on the edge where lava met ocean.
Not far away was this vista, with clouds rolling down off the mountain peak.
Thor had never been swimming with dolphins, so we signed up for a Dolphin Discoveries boat tour to commune with the delightful spinner dolphins offshore.
As we cruised along the shore watching for a passing pod, Captain Shelley explained all the careful precautions he expected us follow in order to avoid stressing the dolphins. Then we slid into the sea with our snorkel gear, and here they came!
From Thor: “It is difficult to describe what it was like for me to swim with dolphins because in the moment it was all so fast. The captain would put us in the water and tell us to “Swim that way!”, pointing off toward the horizon. Then I would wait at the spot, breathing hard in my mask, not knowing exactly where or when they would show up. When they did show, it would be quick. They did not linger. They just calmly swam beneath us like we weren’t there. Of course, while this was happening, I was frantically fiddling with my camera to get a shot. It wasn’t until we got back, and I saw that photo (the one at the top of the page) of the dolphins swimming beneath us that I really felt the beauty and majesty of them. They are so perfect and graceful and the image of them passing serenely below me is deeply moving.”
Here’s a video that Thor made three years ago on a boat ride off Kauai, with a large pod of playful spinner dolphins cruising along with the boat. It was marvelous.
Our Big Island excursion this spring was the fourth time I’ve been lucky enough to swim with wild dolphins, and it never pales. They are magical!
Then we cruised over to Kalakekua Bay for some lovely snorkeling. It’s an underwater preserve and the site of the Captain Cook monument.
Because we came by boat, we were not allowed to go ashore, but Thor got this shot as we were snorkeling:
Captain James Cook had stumbled upon the Hawaiian Islands in 1778, while on a mission to search for a Northwest Passage. He was first regarded as a god, with his impressive ship. Tensions mounted, however, when he had to replace a mast, and his men started mingling (and passing diseases) with the local women, defying the captain’s orders. A skirmish arose, and Cook was killed. Because the natives knew he was an important man, they honored his body in their own way — by distributing parts to various chieftains and other important people. (Despite rumors, there was no cannibalism in the islands.) The monument was placed in 1874.
The coral was beautiful, and the colorful fish plentiful. The clarity of the sea was outstanding.
Yellow tangs are called “Kona gold.”
At bottom in the photo below, a colorful parrotfish. At the top is the Hawaiian state fish, Humuhumunukunukuapua’a, a very dapper swimmer:
Tired and happy, I contemplate the vastness — nothing between us and Asia.
Next week, the Place of Refuge, with its fascinating history and beautiful seaside views.
*****
You will find The Rambling Writer’s blog posts here every Saturday. Sara’s latest novel from Book View Cafe is available in print and ebook: The Ariadne Connection. It’s a near-future thriller set in the Greek islands. “Technology triggers a deadly new plague. Can a healer find the cure?” The novel has received the Chanticleer Global Thriller Grand Prize and the Cygnus Award for Speculative Fiction. Sara has recently returned from another research trip in Greece and is back at work on the sequel, The Ariadne Disconnect. Sign up for her quarterly email newsletter at www.sarastamey.com
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