Since we’re all trapped in “cruel April” of the pandemic, why not escape with Thor and me as we wistfully revisit some of our favorite beaches on fabulous Rhodos?
NOTE: Of course, Thor and I had to make another trip to Greece, as he’s fallen as much in love with the islands as I am. This time I wanted to return to Crete after 37 years, to introduce Thor to “glorious Kriti” and research more settings for my novel-in-progress, THE ARIADNE DISCONNECT. After time-traveling via ruins and museums to explore the mysterious, vanished Minoan culture, we went ferry-hopping to relax on a couple of our favorite islands.
This was our third trip to the big island of Rhodes in the Dodecanese near Turkey, and it was Thor’s turn to escape museums in favor of beaches. (For coverage of wonderful Medieval Rhodes Town and Classical Lindos, check out my blog posts from the previous two years.) And, since this trip was partly physical therapy for both of us — seriously, doctors urging us to spend more time swimming in warm climes! — we were happy to comply. The lure of that magical blue Aegean Sea is not to be resisted.
Like Peter Mitchell in THE ARIADNE CONNECTION, I’m drawn ever deeper:
He kicked hard, straight down into hushed shadow. The water split and reformed around him as he arrowed into it, sharp-edged as flowing crystal. It was bare underneath, too, rock outlined precise below him, not much in the way of fish or plants. Here and there a sparse weed curtsied in the swell, fingerlings scattering in a silver spurt of alarm. But the water: incredible clear blue like swimming in air, and the pure salt cool of it you could almost see forever stay forever, siren voices calling him deeper….
So, eager to explore a new location on the south side of the island, Stegna Beach, we set out in our rental car for another of those steep, hair-raising drives down a rocky cliffside to the small cove.
Naturally, we encountered goats browsing along the roadside.
The village caters mostly to beach-loving Greeks and a few tourists, so we were happy to avoid crowds at mega-resorts, in favor of small inns. Bouganville Studios, with only a few rooms, all overlooking the cove, was a perfect choice. Our room was ideal: compact, sparkling clean in the Greek signature blue and white, with a balcony for enjoying the view. And very reasonably priced!
A 5-minute walk down the hill, and we were swimming off the pebble beach. We prefer the lovely, marble-pebbled beaches to the more bland sandy stretches at the big resorts, since there’s more to see underwater.
The phone-booth-sized shower is a common feature of these Greek studio apartments, but even Thor at 6’6″ managed. Did I mention how spotlessly clean everything was maintained?
During our stay, we had several nice chats with our amiable hosts, Antonio and Nadia. They truly demonstrated the Greek “philoxenia” — love of the stranger — that underlies the warm hospitality we’ve found so frequently in Greece. We’re eager to return to Bouganville Studios next fall (crossing fingers that travel restrictions are lifted by then!) to renew acquaintance.
We couldn’t get enough of the sunshine, warm pebble beach, and swimming/snorkeling:
I love swimming through the schools of what we call “forktails.”
Submerged sunlight over the polished marble pebbles creates mesmerizing patterns:
Fish become living jewels, flashing in the light as we swim through them:
After another brisk swim, we warm up in the sun and climb the hill for a shower. Then “happy hour” on our balcony. Fresh local tomatoes and grapes, feta cheese, and kalamata olives, with local red wine for Thor and retsina for me!
A leisurely stroll along the waterfront brought us to what became our favorite dinner spot for fresh seafood, Pyrofani Fish Taverna.
We met Emma, the Stegna village donkey, who wanders the single road to make friends (and glean treats):
We collected a rustic souvenir to accompany our reproduction Dionysos kylix from the previous year’s trip:
The next day, and the next: Repeat!
And we couldn’t ignore our favorite beach from previous years on Rhodes — the long, nearly-empty stretch of beautiful Ostria Beach:
As geologist Thor explains, the ancient limestone sea bed of crushed coralline creatures has undergone metamorphosis into marble, the former sea bed lifted by tectonic upheavals to become mountainous cliffs, then eroded, tumbled, and swept by streams back toward the sea as polished pebbles. They come in a gorgeous array of colors and patterns.
We couldn’t resist more pretty specimens to bring home. But don’t tell our acquaintance from a previous stay on Santorini! Our host there, Johnny, told us of his incredulity when lifting heavy suitcases of some other guests: “They were bringing home stones from the islands! Can you believe it?” We hastened to carry our own bags to our room….
The best feature of this pebble beach transforms it into our own private spa, with a hot-rock treatment followed by a brisk plunge into the cleansing, crystal-clear sea. “Chairete! Rejoice!”
Next week: Exploring more sites on Rhodes.
*****
You will find The Rambling Writer’s blog posts here every Saturday. Sara’s latest novel from Book View Cafe is available in print and ebook: The Ariadne Connection. It’s a near-future thriller set in the Greek islands. “Technology triggers a deadly new plague. Can a healer find the cure?” The novel has received the Chanticleer Global Thriller Grand Prize and the Cygnus Award for Speculative Fiction. Sara has recently returned from another research trip in Greece and is back at work on the sequel, The Ariadne Disconnect. Sign up for her quarterly email newsletter at www.sarastamey.com
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