The Rambling Writer’s Greek Islands 2019, part 2: Southern Rhodes

Confined by the pandemic? Join us for our ongoing virtual vacation as Thor and I tour sites in the south end of Rhodes.

NOTE: Of course, Thor and I had to make another trip to Greece, as he’s fallen as much in love with the islands as I am. This time I wanted to return to Crete after 37 years, to introduce Thor to “glorious Kriti” and research more settings for my novel-in-progress, THE ARIADNE DISCONNECT. After time-traveling via ruins and museums to explore the mysterious, vanished Minoan culture, we went ferry-hopping to relax on a couple of our favorite islands.

Yes, I succeeded in dragging Thor away from the beach for a driving trip around the south end of Rhodes, where we had not ventured on previous trips. Leaving our studio apartment in Stegna cove, we headed up the steep road in the cliffside. Once more I salute my hero-driver Thor!

Not far along the main coastal road heading south lies the stunning ancient site of Lindos, Classic-era temples perched atop a rocky acropolis that was later reinforced by a Medieval fortress. A village of cubic whitewashed buildings forms a labyrinth below it.

We didn’t stop to make the hike up this year, as we wanted to see some different sites, but for more coverage of the site and history, visit my blog posts from 2017 and 2018 here or at sarastamey.com . It’s one of my favorite ancient sites, with stunning vistas and, incidentally, a gorgeous (crowded) beach and (uncrowded) snorkeling coves featuring that magically clear blue sea!

We continued south along the steep coastal cliffs.

Past the cliffs, a small pebble cove featured a taverna with the usual hanging octopusses tenderizing in the sun. Since I’ve come to know some of these intelligent creatures during my scuba divemaster days, I can’t bring myself to eat them.

Since most of the southern end of the island is fairly wild and undeveloped, we were surprised to drive past a stretch of sandy beaches dominated by large resort hotels. There was even a “Flintstones” theme park! Nothing about that scene appealed to us, so we moved quickly past. Farther south, the coast became fairly deserted, and then as we turned west the landscape started to transition from rocky and dry…

…to greener inland hills and valleys, with forests of pines whose bright green sprays really popped against the deep blue sky:

Our only fixed destination was Monolithos Castle, a 15th-century fortress built by the Grand Master of the Knights of St. John, on a vertiginous crag overlooking the west coast:

The stone walls enclose two small chapels from the same period.

Thor was delighted to discover a new treat at a roadside stall overlooking the crag, peanuts coated with crispy honey and sesame seeds. Thus fortified, we drove steeply down to the base of the crag and then started up the steeper rock trail to the fortress.

We enjoyed a picnic on the windy top while taking in the dramatic views.

One of the chapels, a typical loaf-shaped building, is most collapsed. The intact chapel holds a few icons along with candles to light for an offering or petition.

Continuing north along the west coast road high above the sea, we passed through the village of Siana, known for its honey, olive oil, and fiery souma grape liquor.

Cutting back east across the island, we traversed many twists and turns through the central mountainous ridge and more pine forests. The sea is never far away, though travel is slow along the tortuous roadways.

Nearing the east coast again, we stopped at another church, next to the intriguing, abandoned shell of what was once a sumptuous villa. We never did find out the story behind it.

Returning to Stegna Beach, we had time for a swim before dinner.

Back to our favorite fish taverna, for one of their enormous fresh salads and shrimp saganaki.

A couple of kittens waited under my chair for scraps.

We’re crossing fingers that our planned return trip in the fall to the islands doesn’t get canceled by the pandemic. Meanwhile, wishing we had a “Star Trek” transport device to take us there!

Next week: Another ancient site, another beach, and farewell to fabulous Rhodos.

*****

You will find The Rambling Writer’s blog posts here every Saturday. Sara’s latest novel from Book View Cafe is available in print and ebook: The Ariadne Connection.  It’s a near-future thriller set in the Greek islands. “Technology triggers a deadly new plague. Can a healer find the cure?”  The novel has received the Chanticleer Global Thriller Grand Prize and the Cygnus Award for Speculative Fiction. Sara has recently returned from another research trip in Greece and is back at work on the sequel, The Ariadne Disconnect. Sign up for her quarterly email newsletter at www.sarastamey.com