The Rambling Writer Explores More Greek Islands, Part 34: Mykonos Arrival

Join Thor and me on another ferry ride from Naxos to Mykonos at the hub of the Cyclades (“circle”) islands.

NOTE: Since our recent trip to Greece to research more settings for my novel-in-progress, THE ARIADNE DISCONNECT, Thor and I knew we had to return to this magical region. My first entry in this new blog series posted here on Saturday, 10/20/2018. It gives an overview of our rambles from Athens to seven islands in the Dodecanese and Cyclades groups, ending our ferry-hopping pilgrimage on the anciently sacred island of Delos.

Mykonos in recent decades has become “party central” for the rich and famous as they arrive in their yachts, along with less affluent travelers thronging ashore via ferries. The main harbor town of Chora is a maze of whitewashed cubic buildings and narrow cobbled lanes, and I can testify that it’s easy to get lost in the twists and turns. I spent time on the island in my first backpacking trek through Greece in the 80s, and I wasn’t wild about the rowdy, drinking vibe in town, so camped on a beach “far from the madding crowd.” Mykonos wasn’t always a party destination, as evidenced by the above photo from 1930 (displayed in our hotel, source unknown), when the historic windmills still operated. Thor and I, on this trip, came only for a couple days in order to take a day tour of the extensive ancient sanctuary and settlement on the nearby island of Delos, sacred to the god Apollo.

First we bade farewell to lovely Naxos and the peaceful sanctuary of fertility-goddess Demeter:

Then we boarded a huge SeaJets ferry to wave goodbye to Naxos Town.

Cruising along, we enjoyed the deep purple-blue sea and the rocky islands we passed. Here is yet another chapel perched in a most unlikely spot:

We arrived at Mykonos only a bit late (ferries run on sea-god Poseidon’s or the wind’s schedules at times).

Jackie Kennedy Onassis loved to visit Mykonos on her yacht, and one of the seaside nightclubs, “Jackie O,” is named in her honor. (The central white sign, next to “Babylon” disco):

Thor and I had time for a quick stroll through the twisty, narrow lanes.

Thor has decided that his Norwegian ancestry somehow includes a drop or two of Greek blood (his island name is now Stavros). But following his nose down this narrow alley….

…he discovered that the Mykonians might be part Scandinavian, too:

We decided to pass on checking out the disco and its drinks. Hmm, seeing a theme here for party town?

We would have preferred the spring water from this marble “vapa,” but the dolphins were dry that day.

Following vague directions toward rumored old windmills along the shore, we passed a lovely central church:

And through this courtyard:

Aha! The windmills ahead!

No longer sporting the cloth sails that caught the wind to grind corn and other grains, some of the town’s old windmills were built as early as the 16th century A.D.

We’d booked a room at the comfortable Hotel Kamari a few miles from town at Platis Giali beach.

Despite the time crunch at the end of our trip, and the somewhat chilly breeze, we weren’t about to pass up the chance for a swim each afternoon off the lovely pebble beach. (And Thor had to break in the skimpy Greek mankini I’d talked him into buying on our way out of Naxos.) We ran down to the beach, pulled on our snorkel masks, and swam through cold clarity around submerged boulders and shimmering schools of small blue fish. The Aegean waters are always rejuvenating to the body and spirit. Chairete! Rejoice!

Then it was time for dinner at the seaside restaurant, Thea.

We couldn’t manage to finish everything, but Thor simply had to order some of his favorites for our last evening: Ground lamb balls, shrimp saganaki, fresh salad, olives, and a dessert of fried feta cheese with a honey/fruit sauce.

Back at the hotel, we admired historic photos of the island (including top photo of the old windmill). Our favorite was this one of Petros the Pelican, the mascot of Mykonos for many years:

Pelicans are not native to the islands, but Petros was found in the sea by fishermen after a storm, injured while migrating. One of the fishermen, Theodoris, brought him home to heal, and they became inseparable. For decades, Petros would waddle around town being petted and fed, ride on Theodoris’s shoulder, then sleep in an oil-barrel bed at his house.

A minor scandal broke out when Petros hitched a ride on a boat to nearby Tinos island, and the residents there clipped his wings and hid him so they could keep him. (He was considered a lucky blessing by the religious.) Outraged fishermen from Mykonos set forth in a flotilla to demand the return of their mascot. When the Tinos mayor and a crowd refused to relinquish the bird, Theodoris shouted, “Petros!” and the pelican broke free to scramble up onto his shoulder. The people of Tinos had to let him return to his rightful home.

Petros owned the waterfront for 30 years, accompanied by a female pelican donated by Jackie Onassis. After Petros died, a successor was found, who still wanders the waterfront. It’s said that if you see him, you will return to the island. Unfortunately, Thor (Stavros) and I did not catch sight of him….

Next week: We cross the channel to the sacred island of Delos and its extensive ruins of dwellings and temples dedicated to twins Apollo and Artemis, who were born on the now-uninhabited island.

*****

You will find The Rambling Writer’s blog posts here every Saturday. Sara’s latest novel from Book View Cafe is available in print and ebook: The Ariadne Connection.  It’s a near-future thriller set in the Greek islands. “Technology triggers a deadly new plague. Can a healer find the cure?”  The novel has received the Chanticleer Global Thriller Grand Prize and the Cygnus Award for Speculative Fiction. Sara has recently returned from another research trip in Greece and is back at work on the sequel, The Ariadne Disconnect. Sign up for her quarterly email newsletter at www.sarastamey.com