Join Thor and me as we arrive on Rhodes in another downpour. The clouds part when we find our next lodging at the scenic cove of Charaki beach.
NOTE: Since our trip last fall to Greece to research more settings for my novel-in-progress, THE ARIADNE DISCONNECT, Thor and I knew we had to return to this magical region. My first entry in this new blog series posted here on Saturday, 10/20/2018. It gives an overview of our rambles from Athens to seven islands in the Dodecanese and Cyclades groups, ending our ferry-hopping pilgrimage on the anciently sacred island of Delos.
From Karpathos island, it was a quick hop to the large island of Rhodes, where we jumped into our rental car just in time for a drumming downpour. We’re still not sure if the unsettled weather was due to the aftermath of the unusual Cyclone Zorba, but with climate change, predictability seems to be out the window. We pulled over beside one of the ubiquitous chapels to let the squall pass.
The year before, we had stayed in the Medieval walled city of Rhodes Town on the north tip of the island, so this year we wanted to experience a more low-key stay in the village of Charaki on the eastern shore. Another goal was spending more time on the beautiful beaches and rocky coves along this coast. And, of course, there were ruins of yet another historic fortress on the rocky acropolis above the cove.
We would experience all types of accommodations on our trip, part of the fun, and The Charaki Mare studio apartments were quite a contrast to the spacious apartment we’d scored on Karpathos. About the size of a comfortable travel trailer, our studio was cunningly planned to provide a galley kitchen next to the bed, with a lot of built-ins literally within arm’s reach. The best part was a nice balcony with a peek-a-boo view of the pebble beach just steps away. Note the solar water heater atop the left-hand building, very common in the islands.
We felt very welcome here, as the first to greet us were goats and cats! The tourist development here is down-to-earth, simple apartments and a few outdoor tavernas along the shoreline promenade. There was a strong British presence here, a welcome change from the usual German dominance among tourists, and we were reminded of our stay a few years earlier at Lyme Regis in England. There was the same laid-back vibe of “holidays” spent relaxing by the sea.
Of course, for Thor and me, relaxing involves climbing to explore ruins, and as many swims as possible to revel in the stunningly clear blue sea. In upcoming posts, we’ll take you along to see more sites on the island, but first a visit to our favorite restaurant, Argo, dramatically placed among the jagged rocks at the south end of the cove.
As we strolled toward Argo, we spotted a common sight: Octopus hanging to dry on a line. Pounded and tenderized, they do make a delicious appetizer, but since my diving days when I made acquaintance with many of these intelligent creatures, I simply can’t stand the thought of eating them.
Argo offered cuisine a cut above the usual Greek taverna food of souvlaki or gyros. Thor was ushered into the kitchen to choose his fresh fish to be grilled, and with a wonderful salad and sides, we enjoyed a special meal. The dramatic setting didn’t hurt!
Wandering back to our room after dinner, we peeked into the small Greek Orthodox church tucked behind the waterfront buildings. The plain facade didn’t prepare us for the beautifully ornate interior.
The paintings on ceiling and upper walls had an unusual musical theme, which seem to ground the ethereal players with practical details of their instruments. There was also the intriguing water fountain image above the saints. Unfortunately, there was no one around to ask about the paintings.
Join us next week as we visit the Classical site of ancient Lindos — and, of course, dive into the magical Aegean sea.
*****
You will find The Rambling Writer’s blog posts here every Saturday. Sara’s latest novel from Book View Cafe is available in print and ebook: The Ariadne Connection. It’s a near-future thriller set in the Greek islands. “Technology triggers a deadly new plague. Can a healer find the cure?” The novel has received the Chanticleer Global Thriller Grand Prize and the Cygnus Award for Speculative Fiction. Sara has recently returned from another research trip in Greece and is back at work on the sequel, The Ariadne Disconnect. Sign up for her quarterly email newsletter at www.sarastamey.com
I loved Charaki but right now I am too charmed by that picture of Sara to think of anything else right now. I better go see if she is busy.
Thank you, my gallant Thor!